Fall planting
Is It Too Late to Plant Garlic? (Probably Not, Here's the Cutoff by Zone)
The bag of seed garlic is still sitting by the back door, the leaves are coming down, and every planting guide you open says "October." If you're reading this in late October or November, here's the good news: garlic is more forgiving than the calendar makes it sound.
Is it too late to plant garlic?
Probably not. Garlic does best planted 3 to 6 weeks before your ground freezes, which is October to early November in zones 5 to 7. After that, keep planting as long as you can still dig the soil. Late cloves usually make smaller bulbs, so mulch them heavily.
The hard cutoff is simpler than most people expect. You can keep planting garlic until the soil starts to freeze or gets covered with snow. So the real question is whether a trowel still goes into your bed. If it does, you're in.
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What is the garlic planting cutoff in zones 5, 6 and 7?
In zones 5 to 7, the normal window closes in early November, and the last practical date runs into late November or December, depending on when your soil actually locks up. Here's the cutoff, zone by zone.
| Zone | Normal window | Last practical date (ground still diggable) | If you're planting late |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 5 | October to early November | Late November in most years, or until the soil freezes or snow covers it | Plant at the normal depth, then cover with 4 to 6 inches of straw |
| Zone 6 | October and early November | Early December in most years, while a trowel still goes in | Mulch the day you plant, since straw keeps the cloves from heaving out of the ground |
| Zone 7 | Mid-October to early November | December, as long as the soil isn't frozen | 4 to 6 inches of straw or leaves to protect any shoots that start to grow |
Treat those last dates as a rough guide, because your soil freezes when it freezes. A warm November in zone 5 buys you weeks. An early cold snap takes them away. Check the bed with a trowel. That beats any date on a chart.
Is it worse to plant garlic too late or too early?
Too early is worse. Late garlic gives up a little bulb size, while early garlic can burn off its whole first round of leaves. If you have to miss the window, miss it late.
Plant in warm September soil and the cloves push up tall, floppy leaves before winter. Garlic that grows that fast in the fall is more prone to frost damage, and burned foliage is how people end up digging marbles in July. Planting late also keeps the fall growth short, which gives a pest called the allium leafminer less to lay its eggs in.
That's also why a few inches of green poking up in October or November is fine. Leave it be. If your cloves sprout after the first hard frost, just pile on a thicker layer of mulch.
The trade-off is real, though. Garlic planted earlier in the fall settles in better and produces more the next year. Late cloves get fewer weeks to grow roots, so expect smaller heads. Smaller heads still go in the pan.
How do you plant garlic late in the season?
Plant your biggest cloves at the normal depth, then mulch thick the same day. Late garlic needs that mulch more than on-time garlic does.
1. Use the fat outer cloves. The bigger the clove, the stronger the plant. Cook the skinny middle ones.
2. Plant at the normal depth. Pointy end up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. If the top inch has crusted over, break through it. Shallow cloves are the ones winter heaves out of the ground.
3. Mulch right away. Put 4 to 6 inches of straw or shredded leaves on the same day you plant. Straw keeps the cloves from frost heaving, and late garlic is going into ground that's already cold, so it gets its blanket now.
4. Mark the rows. Once the straw is on, you think you'll remember where the garlic is. You won't. A stake at each end of the row saves a spring of guessing.
Quick test: push a trowel straight down into the bed. If it slides in 3 inches, plant today. If it stops on a frozen layer you can't break, the garlic waits for spring (more on that below).
While the garlic sleeps, your next seed decision is spring. I've ordered from SeedsNow for years; non-GMO and they've never let me down. For the garlic itself, buy from a grower who names the variety, the same advice I give in can you plant grocery store garlic.
Common questions about planting garlic late
Can you plant garlic after the ground freezes?
Not into frozen ground. A thin frozen crust you can break through is fine, and if a mild spell thaws the bed in December, plant then. If the ground stays locked, keep the cloves somewhere cool and dry and plant them as soon as you can work the soil in spring.
Can you plant garlic in spring instead?
You can, but expect small bulbs. Early spring (late March to mid-April) works in a pinch. The catch is cold: garlic needs about two months at 32 to 50F to split into cloves, so spring-planted garlic often makes one small, round bulb with no cloves at all. If you go the spring route, keep the cloves in the fridge for about 8 weeks before planting.
What happens if you plant garlic late?
Usually it comes up in spring and makes smaller heads. If you wait too long, the roots don't have time to develop before winter, so the plant starts spring a step behind. Mulch it heavily, keep the spring weeds off it, and you still get a harvest. The garlic that sits in a kitchen drawer until spring is the real loss.
One thing to do this week: go push a trowel into your garlic bed. If it goes in, the garlic goes in, today, with the straw on before you head back inside. Got more empty beds than garlic? Here's what else to plant in October, zone by zone.
Garlic is patient with late gardeners. It only asks to be under the soil before the soil closes for winter.
Want the full beginner's path from bare patch to thriving garden in one place? It's all in my Backyard Garden book for beginners.
Happy growing!
Priscilla
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